The Jewish Route of Bombay/Mumbai –
Eminent Jewish sites in Mumbai, Pune and Konkan
Researched & Written by: Prof. Shaul Sapir, Hebrew University Jerusalem
Magen David (Shield of David) Synagogue
The “Magen David” Synagogue, was erected through the initiative of David Sassoon who settled in Bombay in 1832. On Sunday, 6th December 1857, David Sassoon laid the cornerstone of the Synagogue in Byculla which was completed in 1861, being the first Baghdadi Synagogue in Bombay. In 1910, the building was expanded to its present dimension by David’s son, Jacob Sassoon. The exterior of the building was designed in a symmetrical eclected manner, with a strong Renaissance influence, inspired by the Classic Greek style at its façade. Towering above the architrave stands the four storey Clock Tower.
The interior of the “Magen David” Synagogue, incorporating the main prayer hall and the women’s gallery, follow a southeast-northwest axis towards the direction of Jerusalem. Along this axis and at the centre hall, stands the Tevah (known as the Bima), and at its north-western end is the Hechal (the Holy Ark), two dominant elements in a Synagogue. As customary in Sephardic Synagogues, the men’s benches face the Tevah on three sides. In a similar manner, the women’s section located on the second floor is also comprised of three galleries supported upon high columns, facing the hall’s central space as well. In recent years the Synagogue’s grounds are rented out for functions such as wedding ceremonies and other happy events.
The Synagogue has two Jewish schools associated with it, sponsored by the Jacob Sassoon Trust. Originally, the schools exclusively catered Jewish children. Over time, with the migration of Baghdadi Jewish community to other countries, the schools have been opened to all communities located in the Byculla area.
Knesset Eliyahoo (Assembly of Eliyahoo) Synagogue, Fort
In 1884, the Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue was constructed on a premium piece of land in the hub of Bombay’s Fort, by a Jewish businessman and philanthropist, Sir Jacob Sassoon, grandson of David Sassoon (founder of the Sassoon dynasty), to commemorate his father, Eliyahoo Sassoon. The commemorative plaque installed at the entrance of the Synagogue’s hall mentions, “Keneseth Eliyahoo, This is the gate of the Lord into which the righteous shall enter. And, this stone is set as a monument to bear a sign that this house of prayer was erected by Jacob Elias David Sassoon And His Brothers in memory of their late father Elias…”
The Synagogue building was planned and designed by architect David E. Gostling, in an eclectic manner of styles, with a strong influence of the Renaissance Style. The interior is divided into three floors. At the bottom floor is an Assembly Hall and the Mikve (ritual bath); the Men’s Section on the middle floor houses the Hechal (Holy Ark, where the Torah Scrolls are kept) signifying the direction of prayer towards Jerusalem and the Tevah or Bima (where the Torah is read), located at the center of the hall; The top floor is the Women’s Gallery. Stunning stained-glass windows, decorate the windows above the Hechal.
The Synagogue underwent extensive renovations in 2018 and was reopened to the public one-year later, on Februar 7th, 2009.
David Sassoon Library and Reading Room
The David Sassoon Library and Reading Room was initially established as the Mechanics’ Institute in 1847, in order to train professional workers for the Mint and Government Dockyard. The idea for a library and a technical institute, located at the center of Fort area was conceived in 1863 by David Sassoon, the famous Baghdadi Jewish merchant, known as the Rothschild of the East. Architects David E. Gostling, John Campbell and Colonel John Augustus Fuller, designed the new building in the Venetian Gothic style.
Governor Sir Bartle Frere laid the corner stone in 1867 and the inauguration ceremony took place in 1870, by Governor Sir Seymour Fitzgerald. Above the entrance, a bas-relief portrait of David Sassoon is carved in marble, designed and sculpted by John Lockwood Kipling, father of the famous poet and author, Rudyard. Placed at the rear side of the portico is a large marble statue of Sassoon, sculpted by the well-known British sculptor Thomas Woolner. Hovering over the top of the building is a decorative Clock Tower, donated by his son, Albert Sassoon, in 1873. The building today is a landmark and one of the iconic gems in the city of Mumbai.
Chabad House, Nariman House, Colaba
The building, known as Nariman House, was home to a Chabad House, a Jewish Orthodox outreach centre run by the late Rabbi Gavriel Noach- Gabbi (1979-2008) and Rivkah – Rivky (1980-2008) Holtzberg, who had moved to India in 2003 and owned the building since around 2006.
A Chabad House, is a Jewish outreach centre was established to facilitate traveling Jewish businessmen and tourists, offering classes, lectures, and workshops on Jewish topics; religious services; Shabbat meals; and special events.
Chabad House was attacked on 26 November 2008 and six of its occupants, including Rabbi Gavriel and his wife, who was six months pregnant, were killed. Their two-year-old son Moshe, survived the attack after being rescued by his Indian nanny, Sandra Samuel.
In 2018 the Nariman House was renamed Nariman Light House. After a long period of renovation, the Chabad House reopened its doors in 2014, resuming all its previous functions and preserving a special section of the building to operate as a memorial site and a museum, exhibiting the horrors of the sad and dramatic event.
Sassoon Dock,
In 1872, Sir Albert Sassoon, the Jewish industrialist and philanthropist, the son of David Sassoon, began establishing a Wet Dock and Bunder (wharfs) in lower Colaba, to enable large cargo ships to discharge and to load the goods in a single step directly alongside the quay. The ceremony for laying the cornerstone, took place on the 10th of June, 1872, and the inauguration ceremony took place on Tuesday, the 8th June, 1875. 1,500 labourers were employed each day for three years for the completion of this immense
The “Sassoon Dock” today, is a picturesque and lively bustling dock, used mainly for fishing boats, crowded with fishermen unloading their catch and repairing their nets.
Clock Tower Gate, Colaba
At the entrance from the main street, the Colaba Causeway, to the Sassoon Dock, a wide gate and a clock tower were installed, at the top of which a large clock was installed. The watch was designed and manufactured by Sir John Bennett and provided a noteworthy element in other buildings owned by the Sassoon family in Bombay and Pune.
Sha’ar Harahamim (Gate of Mercy) Synagogue, Israel Mohalla, Mandvi
The erecting of “Sha’ar Harahamim” Synagogue in Bombay, as well as in Western India, took place in the Mandvi neighboured, where the Bene Israel settled during the 18th-19th centuries, as a small but thriving Jewish community.
The Synagogue was built at Samuel Street in 1796, by Samaji Hassaji Divekar, also known as Samuel Ezekiel, an officer in the armed forces of the “East India Company”. Due to the growth of its members, a larger structure was built in 1860, on top of the ruins of the old edifice. The building was commenced in January 1859, and completed on the 24th of March 1860.
A few decades later, on the 13th of May 1896, the community celebrated, with great grace and elegance the centennial Jubilee commemorating the establishment of the Synagogue. On that occasion the name of the Synagogue was changed to “Sha’ar Harahamim”.
Despite a fall in numbers, the Synagogue still maintains active services and serves a congregation of about a hundred members daily. The synagogue is also featured on heritage and religious tours of the city.
Sha’are Ratzon (The Gates of Desire) Synagogue, Israel Mohalla, Mandvi
“Sha’are Ratzon” Synagogue, was constructed in 1843 and is the second oldest Synagogue in Mumbai. It belongs to the Bene Israel community, and was built by a group formerly affiliated with the “Sha’ar Harahamin” Synagogue, who has become dissatisfied with its management. To differentiate it, it was called the “New Synagogue,” while the “Sha’ar Harahamim” Synagogue became the “Old Synagogue.”
The entrepreneurs behind the new project were Samuel Jacob Divekar and Haeem Isaji (Isaac) Garsulkar. The funds towards the building were collected in 1839, the land was bought on the 22nd of December 1840, the foundation stone was laid on the 2nd of August 1841 and the inauguration took place on the 4th of June 1843. The building is surrounded by a high wall with a main gate which is surmounted by a pediment with an inscription and a pair of wooden doors opening into the Synagogue compound. The ladies’ galleries, as well as in the Synagogues in Thana/Thane and some in other Synagogues in Konkan (Alibag, Panvell), cosists of a mezzanine floor in the space above the entrance to which access is gained by a detached stairway from the exterior.
Tiphereth Israel (Pride of Israel) Synagogue, Jacob Circle
“Tiphereth Israel” Synagogue, was erected at Jacob Circle, due to the increase of the Bene Israel population in this area during the 1870s and the 1880s. It was initiated in 1886 by Benjamin Samson Ashtamkar, among others, in rented premises and was known as the “Jacob Circle Prayer Hall”. In 1896, the Synagogue was renamed as “Tephereth Israel” Synagogue.
Further steps were taken in 1922, to locate a permanent residence for the Synagogue. Jacob Isaac Aptekar and Aaron Benjamin Kandlekar, raised funds for purchasing the premises known as “Rosh del Villa”, the site of the present Synagogue, which was consecrated on March 23, 1924.
Over the years, the Synagogue has undergone several renovations with the last major one coming as late as 2000.
Magen Hassidim (Shield of the Pious) Synagogue, Agripada
Differences of opinion among Tipheret Israel community members, as well as the need for a larger hall for the growing congregation, led in 1904, to the establishment of another nearby Bene Israel Prayer Hall, which was named in 1914, the “Jacob Circle Jewish New Prayer Hall”. The new premise was popularly known as “Dandoolkar’s Prayer Hall”, who had a major role in the founding of the New Prayer Hall.
Roughly, almost thirty years later, a plot of land was acquired for the purpose of building a new edifice for the Synagogue named “Magen Hassidim”. Designs for the building was prepared by architect Samson A. Elijah. A plaque commemorating the laying the corner stone of the building says: “This stone was laid by Mrs. Sarabai Solomon Aaron Bhonkar on 17th November1929.” The Synagogue was consecrated on the 29th of March 1931.
Other structures within the Magen Hassidim Synagogue compound are: The Mikva (ritual bath), the Rebecca Samuel Pavilion, the Solomon and Sarah Hall and Sassoon Hall.
Sha’ar Hashamaim (Gate of Heaven) Synagogue, Thane
At the end of the 19th century, the Jewish community of Thane grew rapidly and the need arose to build a Synagogue for its members. The funds for the construction of the building were raised voluntarily. The cornerstone was laid on March 26, 1878, and the Synagogue building was inaugurated on the Hanukkah festival, December 29, 1879.
In 1926, the Mikveh was installed, thanks to the donation of Isaac Ezekiel Haeem. In 2,001, the structure was renovated and expanded, under the guidance and supervision of the community leaders.
Over the years, the Synagogue building underwent a series of renovations, the most important of which was in the first decade of the 21st century, by adding two floors above the old building. Work began on January 1, 2008, and the inauguration of the new addition, which changed the physical appearance of the building, took place on December 13, 2009.
In addition to the daily prayers, Holy Days and community celebrations that take place in the Synagogue throughout the year, there is also a Zionist association in Thane, a youth club and a welfare organization.
The Bene Israel Memorial in Navgaon/Navgao Village
This small coastal village can be looked upon as the original historical location to the Bene Israel in Konkan and as a landmark of Indian Jewish historiography as well. This is where the long period old story of Indian Jewry comes alive. The Jewish community has been using this cemetery for centuries.
Tradition says that the bodies of the mortals from the ship wreck were buried at this site. The ship is said to have crashed, leaving seven women and seven men to survive who made their home at the shores of Navgaon village. These Jews, strangers to India, brought with them Jewish traditions and religious practices and kept a diligent oral tradition over the generations. They were steadfast about circumcision, Shabbat, saying the Shema and eating only kosher fish (ones with fins and scales). Interestingly, they worked primarily in oil-making and they were known as “Shenwar Teli” the “Saturday oil-pressers”, because of being their day of rest.
The monument is designed by Bene Israel architect Joshua M. Benjamin and was built during the years 1973-1985. The nearby ‘Jerusalem Gate’, indicating names of the Bene Israel Synagogues was erected in 1997.
Prophet Elijah’s Chariot’s Site, Talvali (also known as Khandala)
Prophet Elijah’s Rock is reputed to be the location of a visit from Elijah and is considered sacred by both Bene Israel Jews and Hindus. Elijah the prophet is also known as Eliyahoo Ha’Navi.
Carved in a large rock outside a village on the Konkan Coast, southeast of Mumbai, are mystical markings that are reputed to have been made by Elijah the Prophet. The rock plays a very important role in the life of the Bene Israel. They and the local Hindu population believe that the place is sacred, because it was from this spot that Elijah ascended to heaven with his chariot leaving a groove in the rock and his horse leaving two hoof marks on the stone.
Members of the Bene Israel community make pilgrimages to this site on special occasions and hold the ceremony of the Malida here. The central figure in the ceremony is the prophet Elijah. Before various events: before a wedding; in the seventh month of pregnancy and after giving birth; entering a new home; after being rescued from a dangerous situation; being cured of a serious illness; and more recently, also on Tu B’Shvat. The ceremony on Tu B’Shvat has special meanings. According to tradition, the ancestors of the community arrived in India by ship about 2,000 years ago on Tu B’Shvat. The ship was wrecked off the coast of the Konkan, and seven women and seven men were saved from the disaster. After their rescue, the prophet Elijah revealed himself to them, who promised them that their descendants would return to the Land of Israel.
During the ceremony, a prayer is addressed to G-d and the prophet Elijah to seek success, livelihood, health, fertility and more. In the Malida there are symbolic motifs: The Malida is prepared from semolina or a faded (special crushed rice), as a remembrance of the sacrificial offering offered in the Temple; It is piled like a mountain on a flat, round tray, a reminder of Mount Sinai; Different types of fruits are placed on the Malida and at least one fruit is a new fruit, on which the blessing of “that we have lived and existed and reached this time” is blessed.
Magen Aboth (Defender or Shield of Ancestors) Synagogue, Alibag/Alibaug
“Magen Aboth” Synagogue in Alibag, was built in 1840, by means of voluntary contributions and upon the initiative of Hacham Shelomo Salem Shurrabi, a Cochin Jew of Yemenite descent, who succeeded in involving retired personnel from the Indian army. They warmly supported the proposal and sufficient funds were raised for the erection of the sacred edifice. At the time, there were about 150 Bene Israel residing in the town.
A few years later, once again, donations enabled the construction of the present Synagogue in 1910, according to the design of Samuel Solomon Mazgavkar. The inauguration ceremony was held on 25th December, 1910 at this event, the Synagogue received its present name, “Magen Aboth”. The new building was neat and compact, decently furnished and was enclosed by a compound wall, to which wrought iron gates were added in 1936. The front edifice of the Synagogue has an Eclectic appearance in its architectural style, with a strong pseudo-Baroque design, dominated by three arches on the ground floor. The inner hall resembles other Bene Israel Synagogues in the Konkan and some other in Mumbai.
The Konkan Synagogues not only serve as places of worship for the Bene Israel but are also as a meeting point for the members of the tiny community. Most events and functions such as marriages, bar mitzvahs etc., take place in the sprawling gardens of the compound.
Beth El (House of G-d) Synagogue, Alibag/Alibaug
“Beth El” Synagogue in Alibag, was built by the initiative and contributions from the local Bene Israel community in 1842. In the course of time, as the congregation grew, the building was extended and rebuilt in 1877, from the accumulation of the offerings made by the people of the Synagogue. The commemorative plaque located above the entrance door to the Synagogue gives us the historic details.In 1912, a stone wall was massively built around the Synagogue compound with a decorative gate affixed to it, leading from the main street. The headstone of the arch is decorated with two rows of the first ten letters in Hebrew, depicting the Ten Commandments.
The Centenary celebrations were held on 28th May 1941, and the 150 Years celebration was marked on 27th February 2011, following extensive renovation of the building.
Opposite the Synagogue, are dwellings which are part of the Synagogue property. A Star of David decorates the wall on the second floor, facing the street. Originally, the dwellings were constructed for the use for community members who were involved in Synagogue matters. Today, the building is rented out and the income is used for maintaining the Synagogue.
Beth El (House of G-d) Synagogue, Panvel
Beth El Synagogue, located north of the Raigad District, is one of the oldest Bene Israel Synagogues in the District. The building is a modest structure located on the main square of the town. Prior to the erection of the Synagogue, congregation prayers were held in the house of Aaron Elijah Navgavkar. Later, David Sankar gave his house for the same purpose.
On the arrival of Hacham Shellomo Salem Shurabi, it was decided to erect an edifice for a Synagogue by raising subscriptions from its members. The land and grounds were granted by Joseph David, and the inauguration ceremony and dedication of the Synagogue was held on the 17th of May, 1849, on which day the Jewish holiday of Shavuot (Pentecost)was also celebrated. At the time, 250 Jewish families were living in and around the area of Panvel.
A wall surrounds the Synagogue premises with bright blue metal doors and a ‘Star of David’ at the centre, allowing entry to an enclosed hall. Adjacent to the gate and in front of the building’s porch is an exterior staircase that leads up to a pair of doors providing access to the upper level. These doors open into a women’s gallery along the east elevation of the Synagogue.
Ohel David (Tent of David) Synagogue, Poona/Pune
David Sassoon, the Baghdadi Jewish Industrialist and Philanthropist, built the “Ohel David Synagogue. The construction of the building was started in 1863 and was completed in 1867.
The handsome red brick building, with a lofty tower and spire, is located in the south-eastern corner of the suburban municipal limits. It is high church-like structure in the English Gothic style, built of red brick with trap stone arch work and mullions. The windows are divided into small panes of stained glass. At the east end and rising above the porch, a red brick tower carries the clocks and bells. The tower is surmounted by an impressive tall spire. Due to its red colour the Synagogue is referred to in Hindi and Marathi as Lal Deval meaning the Red Temple.
In its heyday, this Synagogue used to see more Jewish visitors during the monsoon and summer seasons as many Jewish residents from Bombay and nearby places who would spend their summer and rainy months in Poona. Near the synagogue is the Mausoleum, where the philanthropist David Sassoon is buried in an impressive and dignified structure, which is considered one of the most impressive tombs that exist in India.
David Sassoon’s Mausoleum, Poona/Pune
Born in 1792 into a prominent Jewish family in Baghdad, David S. Sassoon became one of the foremost merchants of British India and a great philanthropist who contributed substantially to the cities of Bombay (Mumbai) and Pune.
David settled in India in the 1832, which was ripe with opportunity for entrepreneurs. By the 1850s, David Sassoon had acquired vast real estate holdings in Bombay and Poona.
Poona, was his summer home, where he financed many important institutions such as the David S. Sassoon Hospital, Infirmary, and nearby Leper Home. It was for the Jews of Poona that David Sassoon built the Ohel David (Tent of David) Synagogue in 1863. That structure became a Pune landmark with its tall steeple that long dominated the cityscape; it came to be known locally as the Lal Deval (Red Temple).
David Sassoon passed away in his country house in Poona in 1864. His resting place is located within the Ohel David Synagogue compound.
Sukkat Shlomo (Solomon) Synagogue, Pune
The Synagogue of “Sukkat Shlomo” was built on the land of a member of the Bnei Yisrael community named Solomon (Shlomo) Balaji Jhiradkar. The cornerstone laying ceremony took place on December 28, 1919, and the inauguration ceremony on May 21, 1921.
The synagogue building is enclosed by a wall, and an iron gate, leads into the premises. At the front of the building and on both sides of the main entrance to the Synagogue hall, there are two rooms; One is used for an office and on the other, a staircase is installed leading to the women’s gallery. The interior of the Synagogue is identical to the other Sephardic Synagogues; The men’s benches facing the Bimah from its three wings, and on the second floor, the women’s gallery is installed. The “Sukkat Shlomo” Synagogue is one of the oldest Synagogues in Pune.